Cascina Pellerino, Piedmont
This masterful Barbera is powerful and toothsome with a weight of black fruits and bread dough on both the nose and palate. The wines traditionally crunchy acidity has been softened by two years in French barriques and a further six-month bottle ageing before release. A blockbuster without the perjorative New World connotations of over-ripe jamminess, La Gran Madre shows how good Barbera can develop wisdom not wrinkles.
The Cascina Pellerino estate
This small, modern estate in the Langhe hills north of Alba is run with great enthusiasm by Cristiano Bono and his business partner Roberto Ghione. Their commitment to quality is clear and the wine range include an excellent introduction to the little known Arneis grape and affordable, accessible yet characterful Nebbiolos for those who baulk at spending £25+ on a good Barbaresco or even more for a decent Barolo.